The Complete Guide to Drywall

    Everything you need to know about drywall installation, repair, textures, and common terminology — from Austin's trusted drywall experts.

    What Is Drywall?

    Drywall — also known as sheetrock, gypsum board, or wallboard — is the most common material used to build interior walls and ceilings in homes and commercial buildings. It's made of a gypsum plaster core sandwiched between two thick sheets of paper.

    Before drywall became popular in the mid-20th century, walls were built using a time-consuming process called lath and plaster, which involved nailing thin strips of wood to wall studs and applying several coats of wet plaster. Drywall revolutionized construction because it's faster to install, more affordable, and provides a smooth, paintable surface.

    Common Drywall Sizes

    • 4' x 8' — The most common size used in residential construction
    • 4' x 12' — Used for longer walls and ceilings to reduce seams
    • 1/2" thick — Standard thickness for most walls
    • 5/8" thick — Used for ceilings and fire-rated applications
    • 1/4" thick — Used for curved walls or as an overlay

    There are also specialty types of drywall, including moisture-resistant (green board) for bathrooms, fire-resistant (Type X) for garages and between units, and mold-resistant (purple board) for high-humidity areas.

    How Drywall Is Installed

    Drywall installation is a multi-step process that requires precision and skill to achieve a smooth, seamless finish. Here's how it works from start to finish:

    Step 1: Measuring and Cutting

    Drywall sheets are measured and cut to fit the wall or ceiling. Cuts are made using a utility knife to score the paper, then the board is snapped along the line. Openings for outlets, switches, and fixtures are carefully cut out.

    Step 2: Hanging the Drywall

    Sheets are attached to wall studs or ceiling joists using drywall screws. Ceilings are done first, then walls. Sheets are staggered so seams don't line up, which adds strength and makes finishing easier. The sheets should fit snugly with minimal gaps.

    Step 3: Taping the Seams

    Where two sheets of drywall meet, joint tape (either paper or mesh) is applied over the seam. This tape reinforces the joint and prevents cracking. Paper tape is embedded in a thin layer of joint compound, while mesh tape has a self-adhesive backing.

    Step 4: Mudding (Applying Joint Compound)

    Multiple coats of joint compound — commonly called "mud" — are applied over the tape and screw holes. Each coat is applied wider than the last and sanded smooth once dry. This process is called floating and typically takes 2-3 coats to achieve a seamless look.

    Step 5: Sanding

    After the final coat of mud dries, the surface is sanded smooth. This creates a flat, even surface ready for texture and paint. Fine-grit sandpaper (150-220 grit) is used to avoid gouging. This step produces a lot of dust!

    Step 6: Texturing and Priming

    A wall texture is applied (see texture types below), then the surface is primed and painted. Primer seals the drywall and provides a uniform base for paint to adhere to.

    Drywall Terminology

    Drywall professionals use specific terms you'll hear during any repair or installation project. Here's what they mean:

    Types of Drywall Texture

    Most walls in Texas homes have some kind of texture applied. Matching the existing texture is one of the most important parts of a professional drywall repair. Here are the most common types we see in the Austin area:

    Orange Peel

    The most common texture in Austin and Central Texas homes. It looks like the skin of an orange — a fine, bumpy pattern with a uniform appearance.

    How it's applied: Thinned joint compound is sprayed through a hopper gun at high pressure, creating small dots that are left to dry without flattening.

    Difficulty to match: Moderate. Requires the right spray tip, air pressure, and compound consistency.

    Knockdown

    Similar to orange peel but with a flatter, more spread-out pattern. The texture is sprayed on, then lightly "knocked down" with a wide blade to flatten the peaks.

    How it's applied: Compound is sprayed through a hopper, allowed to set briefly, then scraped with a knockdown knife to create a mottled, Mediterranean-style finish.

    Difficulty to match: High. Timing the knockdown and matching the existing pattern takes experience.

    Smooth Finish (Level 5)

    No texture at all — a perfectly flat, glass-smooth surface. This is the highest level of drywall finish and is common in modern and high-end homes.

    How it's achieved: The entire surface receives a skim coat of joint compound, then is sanded perfectly smooth. It requires exceptional skill because every imperfection shows.

    Difficulty to match: Very high. Any patch on a smooth wall must be flawless.

    Popcorn (Acoustic) Texture

    A bumpy, cottage-cheese-like texture commonly found on ceilings in homes built before the 1990s. It was originally designed to hide imperfections and dampen sound.

    How it's applied: A thick mixture is sprayed onto the ceiling. Older popcorn textures may contain asbestos (pre-1980s homes should be tested before removal).

    Difficulty to match: Moderate. Many homeowners choose to remove it and apply a modern texture instead.

    Skip Trowel

    A hand-applied texture created by skimming joint compound over the surface with a curved trowel. It creates an organic, slightly rough pattern with varying thickness.

    How it's applied: Compound is spread by hand in sweeping arcs, leaving some areas thicker than others for a rustic, Old World feel.

    Difficulty to match: Very high. Since it's done by hand, every wall is unique.

    Spray Sand / Sand Swirl

    A fine, sandy texture applied with a sprayer, sometimes with a swirl pattern created by hand. Common in older Austin homes and some commercial buildings.

    How it's applied: Sand-textured primer or compound is sprayed on, sometimes followed by circular hand strokes for the swirl pattern.

    Difficulty to match: Moderate to high, depending on whether there's a swirl pattern.

    Common Types of Drywall Damage

    Drywall is durable but not indestructible. Here are the most common types of damage we repair for homeowners in the Austin area:

    Holes in Walls

    The most common drywall repair. Holes can come from doorknob impacts, accidental bumps, furniture damage, kids playing, or removing wall-mounted TVs and shelves. Small holes (under 2 inches) can often be patched with a simple patch kit, but larger holes require cutting out a section and installing a new piece of drywall.

    Common causes: Doorknobs, furniture, accidents, anchor holes, pet damage, plumbing access

    Water Damage

    Water is drywall's worst enemy. When drywall gets wet, it absorbs moisture, becomes soft, swells, and can develop mold. Water damage usually appears as brown or yellow stains, bubbling paint, sagging ceiling areas, or soft, crumbly drywall. The most important step is finding and fixing the water source first — whether it's a roof leak, plumbing issue, or condensation problem.

    Warning signs: Stains, bubbling, soft spots, musty smell, peeling paint, visible mold

    Ceiling Cracks

    Cracks in ceilings are very common in Texas homes due to foundation movement, temperature changes, and settling. Hairline cracks along seams are usually cosmetic, but wider cracks or cracks that keep coming back may indicate structural issues. In many cases, too much attic insulation can weigh down the drywall and cause cracking.

    Common causes: Foundation settling, temperature expansion, excess insulation weight, improper taping, truss uplift

    Nail Pops and Screw Pops

    Small circular bumps or cracks that appear in walls and ceilings. These happen when nails or screws push through the surface as the wood framing shrinks and expands with temperature and humidity changes. They're extremely common in newer homes as the lumber dries out and in older homes from natural settling.

    The fix: Drive a new screw near the popped fastener, remove or re-seat the old one, then mud, sand, and texture

    Dents and Dings

    Shallow surface damage from everyday life — bumped furniture, kids' toys, vacuum cleaners hitting baseboards, or general wear and tear. These are usually quick fixes that just need some compound, sanding, and touch-up paint.

    Tape Separation (Bubbling Tape)

    When the joint tape starts to peel away or bubble up from the wall. This is usually caused by poor original installation (not enough mud under the tape), moisture exposure, or age. The old tape needs to be removed and replaced with fresh tape and compound.

    How We Repair Drywall

    At Patch Pros ATX, we follow a proven repair process to make sure every fix is invisible and long-lasting. Here's how we handle the most common repairs:

    Repairing a Hole in the Wall

    1

    Assess the damage and cut a clean, square opening around the hole using a drywall saw

    2

    Install backer boards (wood strips) behind the opening to support the new patch

    3

    Cut a new piece of drywall to fit the opening and secure it to the backer boards with screws

    4

    Apply mesh or paper tape over all seams where the new piece meets the old drywall

    5

    Apply 2-3 coats of joint compound, feathering each coat wider than the last

    6

    Sand smooth between coats for a seamless surface

    7

    Match and apply the existing wall texture (orange peel, knockdown, etc.)

    8

    Prime and paint to match the surrounding wall

    Fixing Water-Damaged Ceilings

    1

    Identify and confirm the water source has been fixed (roof leak, plumbing, AC condensation)

    2

    Let the area dry completely — rushing this step leads to mold and repeat damage

    3

    Remove all damaged, soft, or moldy drywall by cutting back to solid material

    4

    Treat the area with mold-inhibiting primer if any mold was present

    5

    Install new drywall, tape the seams, and apply joint compound

    6

    Match the ceiling texture and prime with stain-blocking primer

    7

    Paint to match the surrounding ceiling for an invisible repair

    Repairing Ceiling Cracks

    1

    Widen the crack slightly with a utility knife to create a clean edge for the compound to grip

    2

    Apply mesh tape or paper tape over the crack for reinforcement

    3

    Apply 2-3 thin coats of joint compound, feathering out 6-8 inches on each side

    4

    Sand smooth and match the ceiling texture

    5

    Prime and paint the repaired area

    Need Drywall Repair in Austin?

    Whether it's a small hole, water damage, or ceiling cracks — Patch Pros ATX has you covered. Send us a photo of your damage and get a quote within 1 hour.

    Call 737-354-7109